Originally posted by DanStokes
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FJ40 I call Shipwreck
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Patrick, proud of you for getting the help you need. A coworker (Viet Nam vet) had a plaque on his desk that read "If you can't handle your own problems what kind of man are you?" And my response was "About normal." We all need a hand sometimes - and I'm not even a vet.
Dan
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Thank you for your support... Sadly 22 veterans take their own lives every day... I personally have been battling my demons for over 30 years, and, have only recently admitted to having PTSD... I am getting help and support through veterans groups and friends like yourself...: https://www.google.com/search?q=22+v...hrome&ie=UTF-8
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so wisely, I wrote the plug numbers on the end where the cap goes.... wrote the wrong number on 2.... want to guess who almost burned his '40 down before he figured it out. Once that was done, all the tuning I'd done was wrong....
that said prayer gave me wisdom to check firing order, then wisdom to get the various fuel and timing settings close enough to make it to the memorial drive by. I kept telling myself (it almost burned twice), then took 2 stops to get it so it'd work at low speed (because timing was so far off).... left at 11:30, should have been there at 11:55. Procession was to start at 12:50, started about 5 late.... thankfully.
Was the only '40 there, there was an FJ...
still, I just wish .... seriously, don't kill yourself, it hurts.... even people you've never met.
(all of this was for a memorial procession for a Marine who ended his life at 34 - there were at least 100 probably close to 200 vehicles who showed up to support his wife and two daughters.....)
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went with HEI big cap.... mostly because I didn't want to pull the distributor
as with all good things, the project starts with something seemingly unrelated... removal of the battery access door
needed to disconnect so I made the entire access removeable
I'm pretty sure I had a phasing problem... it's firing at the 'end' of the tab then corroding... voila, my misfire
in unrelated, time to fix this mess
about that breaker.... it works great, unless you're using the winch and you have an alternator that puts out more amps then its rated capacity
cleaner
locking out the distributor - the wrong way, unless it's Saturday night and you want to use it on Sunday
and it runs, tomorrow - make the wiring better
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a decision to make...
use the big cap HEI or the small cap HEI from the TBI system.
so the random pluses and minuses
big cap - I can always put the chip back in, hook up the vacuum, and untie the mechanical advance
down side is simple.... I have to do that list
small cap... big hole to fill when I remove the chip and replace it with 2 wires.
Also it's more of a pain to wire and reinstall the coil
in that vein, the only place for the CDI is above the distributor (needs air flow).... which means I could have electric field issues - if the coil is moved (small cap), that isn't as much of a problem... that said I've never had trouble with a 6A or 6AL....
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slight miss... the fix
the real culprit
that said, the ignition will now be completely controlled from the EFI computer
of course all fixes start with solving another problem... this case, you can't hear it when the glove box is closed....
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On Sunday, I'm taking part in a drive by for support of a family whose Marine couldn't beat his demons. That means I need to have a way to attach a flag to show his family that we do care.
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got the Suburban ready for a trip, but that's boring stuff... since I didn't have a lot of time for other stuff today - figured I'd do some mirror work
the parts
I put these on initially... was easy and cheap
weld the adapter on
think it looks better with its stock mirrors
then onto brake stuff.... the line lock worked for awhile, now, not so much.... maybe go more manual?
and I really need to resolve the transfer case brake.... so this handle should do it
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the other choice is use wheels like I have on my Colorado or Suburban - which have inner lips to keep the tire on the bead. They work really well.To keep the hub caps, you'd probably have to fasten them somehow to the wheel.
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
1) you can make beadlocks out of your steelies
2) remember these words "how can you tell they're real beadlocks?" beadlocks aren't (usually) legal. There's a couple companies that have made legal ones, but homemade ones and mine aren't 'legal'....
Originally posted by 1946Austin View Post
Speedway. $43 per wheel. And keep your hubcaps.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...xoC79EQAvD_BwE
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Originally posted by ejs262 View PostHow do you like the beadlocks? I've been considering a set for my Suburban, but I'm not sure I can handle not having my stock 1988 hubcaps anymore...
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Originally posted by ejs262 View PostHow do you like the beadlocks? I've been considering a set for my Suburban, but I'm not sure I can handle not having my stock 1988 hubcaps anymore...
2) remember these words "how can you tell they're real beadlocks?" beadlocks aren't (usually) legal. There's a couple companies that have made legal ones, but homemade ones and mine aren't 'legal'....Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; December 10, 2020, 09:57 AM.
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How do you like the beadlocks? I've been considering a set for my Suburban, but I'm not sure I can handle not having my stock 1988 hubcaps anymore...
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I'm so glad I bought that tire machine... $200 well spent. it doesn't work well, and hefting these wheels onto it hurts.... but so much easier
last wheels.. done
and, of course, the last wheel - that bead broke the first push... all the rest I'd have to spin the wheel on the machine to get it to go (this machine is also very used, maybe even used up)
I like it, and it rides SO much better
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