FJ40 I call Shipwreck

[SuperBuickGuy]

on with the fix-its.
first on the list was adjust the clutch.... so I put it on the lift (naturally)


then did a full inspection and lube



these.... not sure I'm a fan.


back to old-fashion


interesting stuff I'm testing. Basically it's a spray on wax with lube in it as well... I'm hoping it does a nice job of keeping the tin worm at bay.... we will see


so I soldered a pig tail on

hopefully things will stay together

[fatguyzinc]

swap that vortec for a big old nasty rat and you'll never worry
about getting enough heat in the cabin again...though my vette sits
on the 180 t-stat 99.9999% of the time, i swear the floorboards
are like frying pans..... touch with bare feet and YOWCH!!!

especially fun since i drive in shorts/slippers 99% of the time. hey, its hawaii.....

[SuperBuickGuy]

mark it done. First, a heat control device


so I plugged the line on the passenger side - it will get a better-looking solution later, but for now, this will work



what a mess, of the 4 gallons I started with, I have 3 left. I took the Evans out. When I built the '40, everyone was so concerned about overheating. I've driven this thing off-road in 100* weather and never got above 210*.... The down side of Evans is if there is ever a leak - ever try to find coolant at your local parts store? It's going into the Corvette, and now we have 'normal' coolant in the '40


I re-ran some sensors. The driver's side tap is for pipe-thread sensors... so I blocked it, then put the temp sensors in different locations.


And it works very, very well. The heater itself works like a bypass from the pump so it warms up inside very quickly. I still have the 2nd heater for my '40, but I can't imagine I'll ever need it.... once I resolve the fuel situation (get the tank out of the inside), then we'll see - having extra heat since my fun is snow wheeling isn't a bad thing

[SuperBuickGuy]

Ever since I sealed the floor, it's been cold in the '40.... time to figure out the problem - that starts with understanding the Vortec water pump

and the aha - that bi-pass I need to either redirect that hose (as a bypass again) or simply block it then draw the coolant from another, hotter source. Now to fix.

[silver_bullet]

Wow....

[SuperBuickGuy]

More spaghetti


I forgot I had the 4 injector TBI.... I dunno what direction, I may use this TBI with the MS2 or simply the entire 950 Commander setup... I think the first thing will be power it up and see what's what.... I know why I didn't use it before - there were 2 reasons: 1) I wanted to use a stock GM system for parts availability, and 2) this system could easily fire the Buick motor.... now, it'd be nice to have the CFM because redline is 4000 rpm with the TBI and I'm pretty sure it's lean when cold... the saga continues... nice thing, though, is it runs and I can use it so it's not a must-fix but rather a best-solution when time allows situ

[silver_bullet]

It's all spaghetti to me .... best of luck to you buddy!

[SuperBuickGuy]

In the midst of everything, I got working on uncovering the wires so I can use the MS2 on my '40...

[SuperBuickGuy]

Time to withdraw a recommendation. I have a spot tracker on my FJ40. It worked-ish, for a year. I called them to fix it, and they called back just after I needed to renew. I said "well, don't need it because it doesn't work." "Oh we'll fix it and give you a discount." They did give a discount, and it hasn't worked since.... emails, phone calls, nothing. Don't use these jokers.

[SuperBuickGuy]

In this case, it'll be pretty easy to tell whether or not he's right. I have ground blocks everywhere else but it all relies on that first leg from the battery to the frame to the block. His instruction makes sense.... that said, why they use 5v systems rather then 12v is another discussion for another day.

[cstmwgn]

not that I saw.... and that means exactly that.... it could be in there

The impression I got was that it was not intended to be the complete ground from battery to block but to augment the existing grounds. I have 1/0 ground cable running from the battery to the frame in the rear where the battery now resided and 1/0 cable from the battery to a power distrubution block in the engine compartment. I have 4 gauge ground wires running from the alternator to the frame, the starter motor to the frame, from the engine block to the frame and the body to the frame in the rear. I have that braided flat wire running from the body to the frame in the front. And Holley still insisted on running a smallish ground wire (8gauge) from the battery to the block. This was in addition to the dedicated ground wire from the battery to the ECU. I clearly don't understand all this but complied as I couldn't articulate a reason to not follow their advice.

[DanStokes]

I've found that to make rear mounted batteries work properly I've had to run a separate ground from that battery to the starter mount bolt and it's fixed a myriad of headaches. So now I just DO run that wire. Guess I'm agreeing with Mr. Dakota though his is the first technical explanation I've ever heard and I guess it makes sense.

Dan

[SuperBuickGuy]

I got the same advice from Holley when dealing with my EFI upgrade. Did Dakota Digital have a minimum gauge requirement/recommendation for this wire?

not that I saw.... and that means exactly that.... it could be in there

[cstmwgn]

... you must have a ground from the battery to the motor ...

I got the same advice from Holley when dealing with my EFI upgrade. Did Dakota Digital have a minimum gauge requirement/recommendation for this wire?

[SuperBuickGuy]

One of today's first task is to follow some advice from the guy who owns Dakota Digital. I'm first to admit that I am skeptical about this advice, however, Dakota Digital has forgotten 10x what I've ever known about car electrical so follow along as I learn.

What is this earth shaking advice. This: you must have a ground from the battery to the motor and cannot rely on the frame as the ground 'wire'. DD's argument is that there is carbon in the steel and just enough resistance in the steel so that your dash many not function correctly. Well, my dash doesn't work right (and yes, I know I've never mentioned it probably because I figured it was installer, not Dakota, error)...... Too be continued