Originally posted by STINEY
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FJ40 I call Shipwreck
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
hmmm, maybe - that said, it's a Holley hydramat.... ugh - it means pulling the seat, and then the sender from the tank. Now would be an optimal time to make the fuel pump in-tank, but I'm afraid that if it is plugged it's POR15 got me again.... I used the tank seal stuff and it did not adhere as well as I hoped it would - so this could be a mess.
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Originally posted by ejs262 View Post
got a spare pump? rig it up roadkill style and give it a go. hearing that it's not an in tank pump makes me thing its more than likely the pump, electric pumps hate pulling fuel.
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
hmmm, maybe - that said, it's a Holley hydramat.... ugh - it means pulling the seat, and then the sender from the tank. Now would be an optimal time to make the fuel pump in-tank, but I'm afraid that if it is plugged it's POR15 got me again.... I used the tank seal stuff and it did not adhere as well as I hoped it would - so this could be a mess.
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Originally posted by ejs262 View Postsounds like a clogged fuel filter to me.
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came home on a tow strap today. Once the motor got to 140* it acted like it was running out of fuel and only vigorous pumping would keep it running (efi, yeah, that shouldn't be possible)...
time to diagnose.
Later
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Originally posted by Deaf Bob View Post
Nothing wrong with the one you used...
The cad plated ones tuck up and take the starting power hits a little better.
Still use the old style on everything else.
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
the picture is of its cheap replacement - that starts the '40 100% better...
The cad plated ones tuck up and take the starting power hits a little better.
Still use the old style on everything else.
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Originally posted by Deaf Bob View PostHad 2 Powermasters.. Son's fried after 2 derbies.
Daughter's solenoid main power post broke off in spite of not being hit or cable stretched
Back to the small body cad plated GM ones.
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Had 2 Powermasters.. Son's fried after 2 derbies.
Daughter's solenoid main power post broke off in spite of not being hit or cable stretched
Back to the small body cad plated GM ones.
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more fun
and what else?
Powermaster has screwed me for the very last time. First time was a starter that was DOA and had a 90 day warranty. At the same time I'd bought an alternator for my H3, and it almost burned it down. I mentioned something, somewhere about troubles with them and eventually they begged me to try them again - said they were a new company. Yeah, BS. This time the solenoid jammed and took out the relay as well... didn't know I put a relay on this.... Indeed, and it's dead.... screw you powermaster. There, you wanted my advertising.....
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I swear that as i get older, I get away with less and less.... the proof
the pink wire fell off - I drove the '40 out of the shop and parked it - idling. a few minutes elapse and the motor quits... whatthebloodyhell?
so I bought the right connector....
and voila.... it works....
crimped, soldered, and taped.
but that system, spade connectors have lasted for decades on other vehicles I repaired.... why not longer?
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I wish I had done this earlier... wow what a difference.
out with the old TBI distributor
in with the no-name, billet HEI (which I originally bought for this)
I'll say this again - to put a distributor in, on a SBC, rather then aiming the pointer at #1, aim it at #8 (the one after #1). Why? you want about 10-12* of advance dialed in. If you aim at 8, that's 12* advance.... and it'll fire immediately.
and then
cleaned up the wiring
and the other side
hose clamp to hold the fender on
fixing a leaky exhaust
and it runs and drives far better then before....
still a few things left, but that was a major item off the list
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